One thing was certainly confirmed during my weekend in Portland: I am the least trustworthy photographer ever. The camera did not come out once during my visit. Castles, scenic vistas, these things I remember to photograph. Urban street scenes? Not so much.
I like Portland. I like the architecture, the public transportation, and the pretentious hipsters admiring one another’s hats on every street corner. I like the blossoming cherry trees, camellias, and daffodils, all of which are several weeks ahead of ours at home. I like that fleece, hiking boots, and Gore-Tex jackets are still the most common fashion statement – one I’m well equipped to conform to.
But most of all, I love its restaurants, its Farmer’s Market, and, of course, its iconic bookstore, Powell’s.
There are some great restaurants in Portland. We were staying in the Northwest district (at the wonderful, if psychedelically decorated, Inn at Northrup Station) and were spoiled for choice by all the local restaurants. Within half an hour of arriving, we were sitting down to lunch at the New Old Lompoc pub, my father’s favourite primarily for its unexpectedly fantastic calamari. Dinner that night was at Lucy’s Table, also stumbling distance from our hotel, which was useful as the skies opened just as we left our hotel – this was, of course, the only time all weekend I left the hotel without my rain jacket. The food was good but the bread pudding with a salted caramel maple sauce rather stole the show. Sunday breakfast at Besaw’s – an enthusiastic and unanimous recommendation from our hotel staff – did justice to my favourite meal of the day. I had one of the day’s specials – french toast with softened apples and pears, even though I’m not usually a french toast aficionado – and was suitably impressed. But the best meal of the weekend, hands down, was Saturday night dinner at Red Onion, a local Thai restaurant. With great service, fantastic food, and amazing specials, I have nothing but praise for this place. It’s definitely a restaurant I’ll be returning to next time I’m in town.
Saturday morning, we took the street car down to the Portland Farmer’s Market at Portland State University. Is there anything more tempting than a farmer’s market in the spring? Particularly if you don’t have a kitchen and so can’t buy anything, can only wander around and gaze longingly at the fresh greens and produce that would pair so well with the local cheese, free-range and organically raised meats and artisan breads (not to mention pastries)? I would have loved to have been a student in Portland. Indeed, it a lot of ways Portland reminded me of Kingston, my own university town, just with better weather and slightly less scenic environs. The campus is beautiful, many of the buildings particularly stately, and it has a giant farmer’s market every Saturday from the spring through until the fall. What’s not to love?
And then there’s Powell’s. It’s kind of terrifyingly huge. I spent two hours there on Saturday (my parents, as predicted, didn’t even come in) and it took me several hours after that to recover from the experience. But there’s so much to see, so much to absorb, and so much strategizing to be done while wandering about. How much can I afford? How much can I carry? Do I start at the top and work my way down? How did split levels seem like a good idea rather than one that would confuse the helpless and already disoriented as they attempted to navigate? It was sublimely wonderful. It’s the perfect destination bookstore; if I lived near it, I would never have a) any money and b) any room on my bookshelves (I’m already in trouble there). My modest haul on Saturday definitely reflects how overwhelmed I was by the whole experience. Here’s what I picked up:
A Time of Gifts by Patrick Leigh Fermor and Between the Woods and the Water by Patrick Leigh Fermor
Both lovely Penguin editions – the covers are so much more attractive than the new NYRB issues.
Tender at the Bone by Ruth Reichl
Everything I’ve heard about this has been wonderful so I’m taking the risk and buying a book by an author I’ve never read, something I almost never do.
Women of the Raj by Margaret MacMillan
Because I loved it so much when I read it last year.
Frauen: German Women Recall the Third Reich by Alison Owings
A favourite back in University, used for many, many history papers.
And then, of course, I had to go back on Sunday. I’d admired a book on Saturday but refrained from purchasing it (again, the confusion addled my brain – usually I am incredibly, irritatingly decisive) and then decided Saturday night that I had to have it. So, after checking out of our hotel, we made the detour to Powell’s so I could pop in, buy the book, and still be on the road by ten. And that’s exactly what happened, except I’m much faster than my parents give me credit for and I managed to grab seven other titles (all old editions of Angela Thirkell novels) while I was at it. It is a skill I have refined over the years for just this situation. I am sneaky that way:
Wild Strawberries by Angela Thirkell
Love at All Ages by Angela Thirkell
Close Quarters by Angela Thirkell
A Double Affair by Angela Thirkell
The Duke’s Daughter by Angela Thirkell
Growing Up by Angela Thirkell
The Old Bank House by Angela Thirkell
This Salzburg by Count Ferdinand Czernin, illustrated by Count Eugen Ledebur
The book I had to go back for in the first place. It looks adorable – yes, that’s really the adjective I’m choosing to describe it.
And that, ladies and gentlemen, was that. It was a wonderful weekend and, though it came on slowly, I am now firmly in love with Portland and already looking forward to visiting it again, hopefully at more length.
I’m very glad I have a complete set of Angelas (although some of them aren’t in very nice editions…on the other hand, my ratty little paperback of Pomfret Towers is selling for $40 on Alibris!) because if I didn’t, I would have to get on a plane to Portland right now. 🙂 I’m glad you had such a nice time in and out of Powells.
I thought I was going to have to wait for my next trip to England to pick up any Thirkells in good condition so I was thrilled to find so many at Powell’s and to know that by purchasing them I was saving precious suitcase room for other books when I’m in Europe!
Rain — is that the wet stuff that falls from the sky? We don’t have that here in south Texas. (Sighs). I am so jealous of your trip — I think I would LOOOOOOVE to live in the Pacific Northwest!!! Great food, moderate weather, and Powell’s — I would be in heaven. Vancouver sounds pretty darn good too.
And I laughed out loud when you went back in for “just one more book” and came out with eight!!! You are a girl after my own heart. We went to an antique store in Fredericksburg, TX (cute little town with lots of beer and German restaurants) and naturally, I found the basement which was full of old books! I made it out with only two: early editions of I Capture the Castle and Shadows on the Rock by Willa Cather. Nothing very valuable but I think they’re great.
I am so, so, sorry I didn’t go to the Jane Austen Society meeting in Portland last year. (Sigh of regret).
I do love my rain and can only imagine what your area must be like! Whenever I go to Palm Desert for a long time I end up missing rain more than anything else!
What great finds at the antique store! I LOVE I Capture the Castle and have really enjoyed what I’ve read of Willa Cather.
I hope you do get a chance to visit Portland (and Vancouver!) one day. Well worth the trip!
Ha, I got Women of the Raj on my first trip to New York’s famous indie, the Strand. Cheap nonfiction is so tempting to me at indie used bookstores. I feel like I’m improving my mind AND supporting a Good Store AND saving money. :p
I’d been on the lookout for a hardcover copy of Women of the Raj since last summer so I was thrilled to find it!
I am so jealous. I am desperate to get to Powell’s. I’d also love to visit Portland in general because it always sounds so gorgeous. Hopefully I will manage to make it this year, if not – I will come back Stateside for a holiday another year when I have loads of money and an empty suitcase to fill with books!
I hope you do get a chance to visit Portland before you leave the States (and perhaps swing by Vancouver too, if you make it out this far?). It’s a wonderful, energetic city and I think you’d really enjoy it.
Jealous of such a great trip to Portland. If I ever make it from New Zealand to the States its high on my list of places to go. I didn’t know about Powell’s until my truck driving brother-in-law spent some downtime in Portland and sent me a Powell’s book bag and a description of the place.
Great selection of books – I love those two Patrick Leigh Fermor titles and didn’t know they were in print! Amazon here I come.
When I told most of my friends I was going to Portland and I started gushing about Powell’s, most of them, including the ones who have visited Portland repeatedly, had never heard of it. Clearly, these people do not plan their vacations the same way bibliophiles do!
@ Marion you can order off Powells website too. As soon as I get off lifting restriction I am heading to Portland. I have 6 boxes of books to take to Powells and have things to pick up.
I am glad to hear that you enjoyed your trip. I would live in Portland if I could.
I don’t think I’d want to live there but it’s certainly a place I’d love to visit more!
What a wonderful trip! I, too, was laughing at you going back for one and leaving with eight. 🙂 One of these days I’m going to get up there myself.
I hope you do get the chance to visit Susan! It’s a fun, friendly town and I immediately felt comfortable there. I’m such a homebody that finding a vacation spot where I feel at home is definitely a plus.
I have just read a snippet of your post today, Captive Reader, and will return to it later as I want to read and digest it more thoroughly. But before I do so, and so that I don’t have to get out my ancient Atlas, please, please, could you tell this little ol’ Englishwoman where Portland actually is? You mention it, but not where it is … on the coast, inland, which State? I feel I should know, ought to know, but I confess I don’t know! But I will return to your post later, once I’ve done the chores (love the illustration of City of Books and I confess that some years ago I parted with a load of Angela Thirkell’s published in Orange Penguins, unread! What could I have been thinking of!)
Portland (at least the one I visited, for there is also a Portland in Maine) is in Northwest Oregon. It’s inland, but not so far that you can’t make a day trip to the coast. That pretty much exhausts my geographic knowledge of the area! It’s about a six hour drive south from my home in Vancouver, Canada.
That sounds like a great trip. Could you tell me some more about This Salzburg please? I’m looking for books for my wedding/honeymoon and we have two nights in Salzburg at the start of the trip so wonder if that might be appropriate!
It was written in 1938 so I’m not sure how well it would function as a guide in 2011! I’ll definitely make sure to post more about it as I read/flip through it.
I picked up that edition of Tender at the Bone some years ago at a nice little (now gone) second hand bookshop in Ottawa. She was then totally unknown to me, and I was totally taken with it. I’m sure you’ll enjoy it, and then you can follow up with Comfort Me With Apples.
Your Portland visit sounds perfect, and fruitful, too.
Thanks Susan, glad to hear you enjoy the Reichl. Now I definitely don’t have to worry about regretting the purchase!
I have never been to Portland (or Oregon, for that matter) but your description of your trip has made me REALLY want to go. The food descriptions in particular… you need to post a warning telling readers not to read this post on an empty stomach!
And your bookish loot! So wonderful! It looks like you found a lot of wonderful gems at Powell’s. I hope I get to visit some day!
Oh Steph, the food was SO good and your options are neverending. My only regret is not buying anything at the farmer’s market – we went right after breakfast which was definitely a strategic error! I hope you do get to visit Portland, sooner rather than later!
I’m glad you had such a good trip. The Northwest part of the city is beautiful with tons of good restaurants close at hand; it does seem like the perfect part of the city to stay in. I’m glad you were able to find so many books, too. And I’m very envious of your descriptions of spring. I was looking through my pictures of Portland from about this time last year and comparing them with the scene that meets my eyes outside in Saskatchewan, lots of snow that hasn’t melted all the way yet and huge sheets of ice from melted snow that has ceased melting due to a drop in temperature. I’m glad you enjoyed yourself so much, and hopefully, you can make another trip again soon.
Oh winter on the prairies. That I do not miss at all but I do feel for you. Two winters in Alberta just about did me in.
I wonder if we were there at the same time? I was in Portland, Oregon from Sunday through Tuesday morning this week for a business meeting. Sadly, I couldn’t visit Powell’s or anything fun because I was with my boss and it was for work – bleh! I cannot wait to visit again so I can find some time to sneak away for some “me” time. The only Powell’s I visited was the one in the airport.
We left mid-morning on Sunday so there wouldn’t have been much, if any, overlap. So sorry to hear you didn’t get to visit Powell’s – how cruel to be in the same city and unable to go! I hope your next trip has more free time for you to enjoy all Portland has to offer!